The Malleolus de Valderramiro 2009 is a sensation: far and wide, this bottle receives great praise on both sides of the Atlantic.
As Emilio Moro himself said: “Wine is an art, if you know how to listen it speaks to you, telling you when it needs racking and when it needs to rest. It is like a living being that you have to understand, look after and care for.” The Melleolus de Valderramiro is a special bottle, even by Emilio Moro standards.
The word “Malleolus” comes from the Latin word majuelo which is the name used in Pesquera de Duero for a small vineyard. With the Malleolus, Bodegas Emilio Moro substituted the traditional categories of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva with wines that exhibit their own identity. The Malleolus is cultivated using grapes from majuelos between 25 and 75 years old, and has become a significant milestone in the history of Emilio Moro.
The Moro family has been farming the same vineyards in the Ribera del Duero since 1932, the birth year of Emilio Moro (the patriarch) as well as the year in which the Finca Resalso vineyard was planted. For the first two generations, the Moro family sold their grapes on the bulk market. However in 1987, current owner Jose Moro Espinosa invested the family’s entire savings into winery equipment and Bodegas Emilio Moro was born.
Tasting Notes: Intense ripe cherry-red colour, with dark tones at the heart. The nose is opulent and intense, dominated by black fruits and a marked minerality, accompanied by toasted aromas of fine oak. A great complexity of spicy and sweet nuances. On the palate it is a powerful ensemble, persistent with a silky tannin that envelopes the palate. The finish is long and persistent, and lingers on the palette.
96 Points – Wine Enthusiast:
After two marginal vintages (2007–08), this is Emilio Moro and Ribera del Duero at their finest. This Tinto Fino delivers a huge wave of mocha, blackberry, tobacco and coffee aromas in front of a dense and layered palate that’s packed with prune, chocolate, cassis and blackberry flavors. A savory, richly textured finish overflowing with coffee, chocolate and smoky flavors seals the deal.
95 Points – Wine Spectator:
Plum, cocoa, mineral, sanguine and cola flavors mingle in this rich red, whose plush texture conceals a powerful structure, deep and balanced, with a finish that lingers and expands into spice, floral and earth notes. Distinctive and intriguing, this is still reserved and has much more to give.
93 Points – Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate:
The 2009 Malleolus de Valderramiro comes from 85-year-old vines and is matured for 18 months in new French and American oak. It received a eulogy from my predecessor in barrel, and although my own appreciation is more tempered, I still regard it as a stupendous wine. The oak is seamlessly integrated on the stylish nose that offers hints of mocha and dark chocolate to complement the brassy bold black fruit – creme de cassis and blueberry jam. The palate is full-bodied and just a little cloying on the entry. It is decadent, structured and voluminous, a bold intense wine with mouth-lacquering luscious, almost viscous fruit on the finish with fresh dates and cassis. It is uncompromisingly primal and unyielding at the moment and deserves several years in bottle.
93 – Points Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar:
Glass-staining ruby. Sexy, highly perfumed bouquet evokes black and blue fruits, potpourri, incense and smoky minerals. Juicy, penetrating and seamless, offering sweet blueberry and boysenberry flavors lifted by tangy minerality. Finishes sweet and very long, with resonating floral character and supple, even tannins.