Spain isn’t only about reds – there are very nice whites too, and the Burgans Albarino is a great choice to enjoy on a leisurely summer day (or evening).
Burgans is made by Luciano Almoeda at Bodega Martin Codax, a big advocate of the Albarino varietal in Spain. Luciano was influential in obtaining worldwide recognition for not only Albarinio, but also for the Rias-Baixas wine area, where Codax is located.
Martin Codax has grown considerably in recent years and is among the most progressive in the area. Instead of using wood, the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel with light lees stirring. This helps preserve the natural lift and minerality of the grapes.
Tasting Notes: pale yellow with notes of lemon, peach and tropical fruit aromas. Round, ripe and savory with a slightly exotic personality. It’s nicely textured and over-delivers in the finish. Excellent minerality.
91 Points – Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar:
Bright gold. Smoky peach and pear aromas are brightened by dusty minerals and lemon pith. Deep, expansive tangerine, nectarine and poached pear flavors are nicely lifted by white pepper and bitter quinine. Distinctly rich for the region but quite lively as well. Finishes with firm grip and lingering spiciness, leaving sweet citrus and pit fruit notes behind. According to the importer, yields were off by 40%, which likely accounts for the wine’s uncommon weight and power.
88 Points – Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate:
Bright This 100% Albarino is one of the best buys emerging from the appellation of Rias Baixas, which has become quite fashionable, causing the wines’ prices to rise. The 2012 Burgans, from one of the winery’s oldest vineyards of the same name, exhibits plenty of flowery notes intermixed with apricot jam and delicate peach fruit. Medium-bodied, crisp, stony, fresh and lively, it should drink well over the next 1-2 years.